Boxer Wc 2012 Manual
- Apr 26, 2014 Rock Shox boxxer. World Cup 2012.mov - Duration: 2:34. Osha nefa 16,716 views. Rock Shox Boxxer: cambio de retenes - Duration: 8:47.
- Boxxer 421 Owner’s Manual. Avenue West Mukilteo, Washington 98275. 1, September 21, 2012 (182-065-D) No part of this.
For nearly two decades, BoXXer has been piloted to the top step of the podium at downhill World Cup races and freeride events more than any other fork.
Easy TLC Is your BoXXer feeling a touch sticky? Doing a complete rebuild of your BoXXer, while not difficult with with the proper tools and good instructions, can be intimidating for a lot of riders. Thankfully, the BoXXer's internal layout that completely separates damping and lube oil allows riders to easily perform minor maintenance like dropping the lowers to give them a good cleaning, or change seals, without having to jump right into a full on damper rebuild. While we'll show you how to replace the BoXXer's damping oil in an upcoming Tech Tuesday, today we are going to cover the basics: fork lowers removal, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly. This can also be tied into seal replacement as well, although it is often the case that the fork seals are just fine but some new lube oil and grease within the lowers can make all the difference in the world. Some helpful pointers.
We've used a BoXXer World Cup in the photos below, but the same basic steps can be applied to the current R2C2 and R2 models, as well as the older Team and Race versions. Note that other BoXXer models may use a different adjuster knob assembly at the bottom of the damping side leg, requiring a slightly different removal method. You'll be removing the high and low speed rebound knob assembly before pulling off the lowers - be careful not to lose the washer, c-clip, or small 2mm hex bolt.
More grease and lube oil on top of what is recommended will not keep your fork running smoother for longer. In fact, the extra lube will likely be forced out through the fork seals and cause a large, dust attracting mess. As with any repair, if you don't have the right tools, or don't feel comfortable doing the job, you are much better off taking the fork to your local shop instead. We are not pictured wearing Nitrile gloves in the photos below, but it is certainly a good idea to wear some. This is especially true if you work in a shop and will be getting your hands oily on a regular basis.
Eye protection is also recommended, especially when spraying any cleaning solvents. As always, follow RockShox's torque values - Maxle: 50in/lbs, crown bolts: 65in/lbs, foot bolts ( damper and spring side): 65in/lbs.
Step 5 - It is now time to remove the high and low speed rebound adjuster knobs to allow access to the damper side foot bolt. Our fork requires a 2mm hex key to loosen the bolt holding the outer knob in place, but other model year forks may use a c-clip instead. If your's requires a 2mm hex key, be careful to ensure that it is fully engaged to prevent rounding out the aluminum bolt as you loosen it. If your fork has a c-clip, use a pick and small sized flat blade screwdriver to push it out. The c-clip may pop free suddenly and go flying, so go slow. Pull the outer knob off, making sure to also note the thin black washer under it, and place it in a safe spot. Use a 24mm open ended wrench to turn the large aluminum foot bolt counter clockwise until it is free, then thread it back in three to four turns after you've removed the crush washer and retainer.
Proper thread engagement is key because you will be striking the bolt to free the damper shaft's press fit into the bottom of the lower leg. Step 8 - The next step is to loosen the spring shaft foot bolt. Use a 5mm hex key to turn it counterclockwise three to four turns, then strike the bolt with the same plastic mallet to knock the shaft free from the lower leg. Completely remove the bolt and position the fork vertically over a drain pan ( an old Tupperware container is perfect) to let the old lubrication oil drain out of the foot nut holes in the lower leg assembly. Cycling the stanchion tubes up and down a few inches will encourage it to drain out as well. Step 10 - Give the stanchions a good cleaning with a lint free rag and a few sprays of isopropyl alcohol.
T20 Wc 2012
Inspect them thoroughly, checking for any dings or scratches that may damage the fork seals or bushings. You can also cycle the damper rod into the stanchion tube to check for any issues ( we'll cover damper rebuild in an upcoming Tech Tuesday). Now is also the time to take a close look at the crush washers that are under each foot bolt. It is a good idea to replace them each time that you remove the bolts, but that rarely happens out in the real world.
If they are cracked in half, or completely crushed, you should install new ones as they also help to seal the lubrication oil into the lower legs. Step 11 - The most time consuming, but also the most important, part of the job is up next: cleaning the inside of the lower legs. We use a brush that has been designed specifically for the job ( it's just a soft, tubular shaped brush on a long handle), but an old rag on the end of a plastic or wood rod also works just fine. We recommend never using a long screwdriver to force the rag down into the fork, as it can easily scar one of the bushings. Spray a good amount of isopropyl alcohol down into one side of the lowers, followed by a scrubbing with your brush or rag. Repeat a few times on each side of the fork, and then give the insides a visual inspection. The bushings should be free of any grime, and there shouldn't be any old gunk pooled at the bottom of the casting - it will only cycle around inside the fork after your rebuild, negating the new grease and lube oil.
Make sure that the rubber disc bottom out bumpers are still seated at the bottom of each leg. Step 13 - Once you are satisfied with your sparkly clean fork it's time to give the oil and dust seals a coating of grease. Applying massive globs of grease isn't going to help anything - it will just get displaced down into the bottom of the fork lowers. Instead, apply a thin coating to both the inner oil seal ( usually black coloured within BoXXer forks) and the inside lip of the dust seal. A dab of grease spread around the upper bushing will help as well.
Most grease with a Teflon element to it is fine to use, but stay away from Lithium based option as they are said to be corrosive to the fork's seals. Step 14 - The next step is to reinstall the stanchion tubes into the fork lowers. Remember that the damping side leg is on the riders right, while the spring side leg is on the left.
The very bottom of the stanchion tubes feature a slight taper to them that helps you to slide them past the dust seal without causing any damage, although you still needs to be very careful at this point. It can help to start the insertion at a slight angle, setting one portion of the stanchion tube past the seal only a few mm before the rest. Keep an eye on the entire circumference of the seal as you insert the stanchion, making sure that the bottom of the tube doesn't pull the seal lip in and tear it. Slide both tubes in until the damper and spring rods bottom on the casting, then pull them back out a few inches to allow the lube oil to be put in. Inspect the seals once both stanchion tubes are in. Step 15 - With both stanchions in, tip the bottom of the fork up so it sits at 45 degrees.
Use a syringe to push 10ml of 15wt fork oil in through the shaft holes ( where the foot nuts tighten into the damper and spring shafts) in the bottom of the fork casting. Although different weight fork fluid will work just fine, you don't want to use much more than the recommended 10ml of fluid because it will only make a mess as it is forced past the fork seals. If you don't have a measured syringe you can think of 10ml as being two teaspoons worth of fluid. Step 16 - With the bottom of the fork still at an up angle, compress the stanchion tubes enough so that both the damper and spring rods bottom within the fork lowers. Thread the spring side foot bolt in place after putting a dab of grease on bolt threads ( this will allow you to unthread it easier down the road), tightening it to 65in/lbs. Bottom the damper side stanchion, holding it down as you thread the greased damper side foot bolt assembly clockwise, tightening it to 65in/lbs with a 24mm open ended wrench. Do not over-tighten the foot damper side foot bolt; it is aluminum and can be damaged if overdone.
Man, your wierd. I dont know about your previous expieriences but i am not the kind to show my penis online. And also i have the right to my opinion of boxxers and ive ridden 4 or 5 sets and they all feel horrible compared to 40's and 888s, i mean yeah they they're probably good for racing cause you get all your power down cause of theyre stiffness/solidness. Tbh im over reacting but im comparing them to even older fox and marzocchi which just feel nicer so theyre not going to be anymatch to a standard 888 Reply. Yes you have the right to your own opinion i have mine too but i dont shout and over react evry single time i see a rocco or CC DB that they are overpriced and over hiped you can say you don't like them and it that is it that is why i sayd you are showing your penis like a mentaly challeged person.
Think before shouting on the internet thankyou for your description why you don't like them but have you owned one? And propperly set one up? It takes time i need almost 5 rides to set my fork up and even more for the rear shock so i don't hait on stuff before i havent riden them or read a lot of reawiews and owners i agree that marzocchi feels nice from the get go and well fox is fox there is almost nothing bad to say about thme altho they are expensive boxxer or the DC domain that is even cheaper and they preform extremly good for the buck but now i am offtopic and i am going to stop now. Is your BoXXer feeling a touch sticky out of the box? Doing a complete rebuild of your BoXXer the day you bought it, while not difficult with the proper tools and good instructions, can be frustrating for a lot of riders, but surprisingly some people believe this is acceptable because it's a race fork.
Thankfully, the BoXXer's virtually eliminate damping and lube oil from the factory which allows riders to use their own (or none) from day one, and perform major maintenance like dropping the lowers to give them a good cleaning, or change seals, without ever having to ride it first. Audio crack dealers. Today we are going to cover the basics: fork lowers removal, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly. This can also be tied into seal replacement as well if you did the stupid thing and rode your new fork without putting oil in it first, although it is often the case that the fork seals are just fine because as a racer you know you should be completely rebuilding everything from the factory before you bother tucking your jersey into your sweatbox pants. Having some lube oil and grease within the lowers can make all the difference in the world.
Well very good tech tuesday, as im pretty good in servicing my bike i can do this and done this so many times when i had boxxer, but i guess most people would be happy to service his 2011-2012 888 RC3 Evo fork becouse there is absolutely no source of service manual after 2006, or a how to do video either, only just a ChainReactionCycles DH team's service guru video which is an okey source for me, but i guess it isn't okey for the others. Im also waiting for a dhx 5.0, dhx RC4, Bos Stoy and a Cane Creek Double barrel service. Anyway very good, and clean service for the Boxxer Forks! FR-Man, Zac the Manitou guy here.
Since the Travis is an outdated fork, it likely won't be covered in a Tech Tuesday. That being said, when you are ready to service your fork just drop me a line and I will fill you in on all the important elements of the rebuild. I'll mention one thing right now that people the world over have gotten wrong on the Travis for YEARS- The comp rod ('Spring side') assembly stanchion-end-cap MUST be cleaned, red loc-tited and PROPERLY TORQUED. Most important part, next to performing the very same thing to the comp rod bolt that fastens the casting to the fork. If anyone recalls that image of the Travis lowers blowing off a bike mid-run- 'CRITICAL TECHNICIAN FAILURE' (Say it in your best robot voice).
Yu-gi-oh Wc 2012
I have a 2012 RockShox Boxxer WC that is experiencing (what I thought was) hydrolock. Basically, it feels like the compression is cranked all the way up or in lock-out mode.
In order to get the fork to even budge, I have to air-down to 30psi or less (72psi is the recommended for my rider weight). I've read various forums & everyone seems to point back to an issue w/ worn seals on the damper causing hydrolock. So I ordered the Service Kit (00.4315.032.170) & have since replaced the seals, glide rings, etc. I then filled up the lowers & upper damper w/ the appropriate weight & volume of oils (230mL of Maxxima 5wt in the damper & 10mL of Silkolene 15wt in both lowers).
And I turned all the knobs counter-clockwise. Unfortunately, it's still exhibiting the same symptoms. I did notice that before putting everything back together, the damper leg felt like it was almost too easy to push. So I'm speculating that the issue must be coming from the air-spring side of the leg.
Nys Wc 2012 Guidelines
But then again, when you look at all that's involved in the spring side, it's pretty simple & not a lot of parts going on in there. Anyone have any recommendations to direct me to what I should look at next? Unfortunately, it won't be till at least another year before I can invest in a new fork. So I'm trying to get this fork functional till then.
Continuing on with the saga, I troubleshooted the air-spring side further this afternoon during my lunch break. I removed the schrader valve from the blue anodized disc at the top of the airspring assembly and put everything back together & pumped up to 50psi. The fork actually compresses! So this is telling me that the valve is preventing the positive air from equalizing into the negative chamber. I took it apart again & replaced the valve w/ one I pulled out of a spare tube (should be the same thing, right?). It does feel a bit better than before.
At least I can actuate the fork w/ air in it now. However, I'm still not getting the 30% sag. Even with all the air out, I only get about 15% sag. I'm really loving the simplicity of my coil Vengeance at the moment. I'd love to convert this WC to coil, but looks like it's gonna cost around $300 for all the pieces (if I can even source them). So at this point, I'm gonna try my luck w/ a replacement airspring assembly ($65 from eBay).
Thinking in my head: it can't be anything else, right? There's only 3 main components: main stanchion (which is perfectly smooth inside), the air topcap (which is pretty simple & isn't leaking), & the airspring assembly. I'll follow up w/ my findings once the new part comes in. Hopefully, this helps someone else out there in the future.